Home Owners Electrical Guide
Home Electrical 101
Home Electrical 101
Your home has a 120/240 volt electrical wiring system and, depending on the size of your home, 100 to 400 amps of electrical current. This will be a combination of hot wires, neutral wires, ground wires and a number of others for very specific applications. Every home has a main breaker than can shut off power to the entire house. The main breaker is typically outside next to your electrical meter.
Removing electrical breaker box panel covers to access the electrical wiring should only be done by a licensed electrician. If not handled correctly, or if faulty hot wires or ground wires are not identified correctly, an electrical shock and an ARC flash may cause severe burns and possibly death. Your best bet is to leave complex electrical work and repair of any exposed hot wires to the professionals.
It is useful to familiarize yourself with the your electrical wiring plan, all switch controls, and the whereabouts of all electrical panels inside and outside of your home. The electrical panel will have multiple breakers and each of these should be labeled as to what that particular electric circuit powers. A circuit can either power a series of light switch controls or outlets or something specific such as a garbage disposal or dishwasher.
Breakers protect the electrical wiring system by tripping the power if there are too many things drawing power on the same electrical circuit. A short circuit in the system will also trip the breaker. Tripping a breaker causes the breaker to move into the center tripped position.
Reset the breaker by first going to the OFF position and then back to the ON position. If the breaker trips again after resetting it once DO NOT keep trying to reset the breaker as this indicates there is a problem on that electric circuit and attempting to reset could cause damage or a fire.
Some outlets in your home will not allow things to be plugged in that are not aligned with the outlets proper orientation. Do not ever force something into an outlet, it could be the improper orientation or a different voltage and forcing it into the wrong type of outlet can cause damage to the device and/or the outlet.
Many of these precautions are covered in the national electrical code and will be a part of the electrical installation from when your home was built.
We have been brightening our homes with the typical incandescent light bulb since it was perfected (not invented) by Thomas Edison in 1879. Recently, with new technology, we have seen many different types of energy efficient alternatives on the market. For example, the Compaq Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) and Light Emitting diodes (LEDs) are exponentially more efficient by losing less energy to heat loss while giving off more usable light from your light fixtures.
Buying a CFL bulb can be confusing but they can save you a lot of money and energy. There are several things to look for when buying a CFL bulb but the number one thing is wattage (W) or the amount of energy the bulb uses; as far as light output is concerned (measured in Lumens) a 13 watt CFL bulb is approximately equal to a standard 60 watt bulb.
Light color is a factor with CFLs , measured in Kelvin(K), because of the many different choices ranging from 2500K-6500K. The standard incandescent light bulb has a light color of approximately 3000K.
There are a few things that should be noted about CFL bulbs: CFL bulbs cannot be dimmed, they take some time to reach full brightness so we do not recommend them in areas where the light is not on for an extended period of time, and they contain small amounts of mercury which is harmful to the environment and need to be disposed of properly.
LED bulbs are the newest on the scene and can be a little pricey, but if you are willing to pay a little more they will save you more energy and they last a lot longer (some up to 20 years!). Most LEDs can be dimmed with the appropriate dimmer light switch and they contain no mercury.
Another way to save energy is by installing motion sensor switches in some areas of your home. Areas that benefit most from motions sensors are closets, bathrooms, pantries, hallways, or any light fixtures in a place where lights do not need to be left on when not in use.
(GFCI) protects circuits that could potentially be exposed to water or moisture. Typically they protect bathrooms, kitchens, garages, and exterior outlets. There are two types of GFCI s, a GFCI circuit breaker and an outlet GFCI. Outlet GFCI s are the outlets you see that have 2 buttons in the center; one says TEST and the other RESET.
An outlet GFCI can protect as many as 10 other outlets and are more sensitive than a circuit breaker to protect you from electrical shock, thus, trip a lot more often. Hair dryers are notorious for tripping these quite often. If one of these trips all you have to do is unplug everything in that outlet and push in the RESET button. If this button immediately trips again there is a larger problem that might require an electrician.
A common problem with homes is that outlets will be protected by a GFCI that is in a different room, outside, or even in the crawl space. Then when there is no power to an outlet it can be a game of hide and seek throughout your home trying to find the culprit GFCI outlet.
A great way to solve this is to identify all the GFCI outlets before furniture might be in the way. Here is a quick flow chart of where to check first that could possibly save you time.